By Prashneel Nepal

Sometimes I wonder why I travel a lot.

Between all these jam-packed schedules, and despite having a little time to break free of all the busy life and spend some valuable time with my family, traveling far away has always been my first and foremost choice than staying home and relax. And I, somehow, have always been able to manage money for my journey from my little casket.

I went to Gosaikunda a few months ago. Gosaikunda, an alpine freshwater lake located in Langtang National Park of Rasuwa district at an altitude of 4,300 m (14,370 ft), is one of the best destinations for trekking. The water here remains frozen from October to June.

The water of Gosaikunda Lake is considered holy and the destination carries a special significance during the the Janai Purnima festival—which falls on the last day of Hindu lunar calendar (in the month of August)—when thousands of pilgrims from Nepal and India come to visit here. It is believed that taking a holy bath in the lake washes off pain, sorrows and sins.

Legend has it that Gosaikunda was created by Lord Shiva when he thrust his holy Trident (Trishul) into a mountain to extract water so that he could cool his burning throat after he swallowed the lethal poison released during Samundra Manthana to save the creation.

Well, I considered this holy occasion suitable and arranged a trek to the holy place. The trek to Gosaikunda begins from Dhunche village or Syabru Besi or Sundarijal. Since, Dunche is the most preferred place as starting point; I took a bus to reach the district headquarter which is located at an altitude of 2,030 meters (6,660 ft). It takes about 6 to 8 hours to reach there from Kathmandu via bus. Barun, a friend of mine had arranged a ticket for me.

I stayed at a guest house owned by Sonam dai, a local dweller of the district headquarters. Given that hundreds of pilgrims arrive at this place around this time of the year, I had to made peace with sharing a room with six strangers. In the morning I found out that almost all the inns were crammed with visitors. I also experienced some not want to share moments while using bathroom; but I would rather say these hotels and lodges opened at resting points should consider building clean toilets paying attention to the needs of travelers.

It normally takes a two-day trek to reach Gosaikunda from Dunche. If you start trekking in the early morning and want to shorten you trek, you can reach Laurebinayek, which is at an altitude of 3,700 m (12,100 ft), in the evening. Some travelers find it extremely challenging to ascend Laurebinayek on the same day. Thus, they choose to rest at Chandan Bari located at an altitude of about 3,200 m (10,500 ft), which also involves a long steady climb. Gosaikunda can be reached the next day after a four-hour walk.

Travelling itself can be challenging as it offers a path for everyone, regardless of experience, long ride, then days of ascend and descend, level of fitness and time availability—the journey can be flagging indeed. Sometimes all I feel is tiredness and severe body pain after I return back home. Nevertheless, if I put it correctly and honestly, the burden we carry while travelling to any faraway destination is worth forgetting provided we return with tons of memories and a changed perception.

I had to shorten the trip to three days. I, thus, descended from Goshaikunda the same day I reached there. It was perhaps I felt almost near to death escape after I returned back to Kathmandu. Later I learned that Barun had to queue up for two days to get a bus ticket from Dunche to Kathmandu. Apart from geographical challenge, I also witnessed the festival not well managed here. It would be much better if the local government and the stake holders would make effortful steps to make the festival a bit more organized.

Despite all these want to forget memories, trekking to Gosaikunda—an exotic 108 glacier lakes, small and big and scattered around the region– offers us spectacular and breathtaking scenic beauty including endless mountain views, listing it one of the best travelling destinations of the world.

Trailing through the challenging routes and stopping by to capture the awesome scenery are the best parts I say. Normally I choose to travel alone and to the rural areas—away from internets and mobile networks. It gives me time for self-reflection. For me, nature reflects my past like a mirror. It takes my experience deeper inside and gifts me time to self analyze to get the better understanding of myself. To sum up, travelling is like meditation for me which brings me closer to who I am.

Moreover, you get to be familiar with the culture and lifestyle of people living there. Knowing different people and hearing their stories are the blessings of traveling which can be real inspirations to many.

I must say this 22-year old woman, I met, was herself a story of never ending inspiration. She was eight months pregnant; and I wondered how would an expecting mother collect the heart to travel all day long by bus then trek for two days just to run a temporary lodge in Gosaikunda. She seemed kind and even offered free foods to guests. On the contrary, she also dared to kick the misbehaving guests out of the lodge in the chilling and freezing night. Sometimes she talked to herself and next moment she would keep quite lost in her own thoughts. I took a photograph of her.

Her family had tried to stop her coming here to run the temporary logde but she came from Kathmandu nonetheless, the Sherpa woman shared.

“The festive season brings a good opportunity to generate some income,” said the Sherpa woman who had been to Bahrain for for foreign employment and worked there for four years.

Born in Rasuwa, she had eloped with a Sherpa man from Namche some years ago. “We fell in love on facebook,” she added.

Listening to stories of different people and capturing their narratives in pictures is itself a beauty of travelling.

When I returned back home, my wife came to pick me at the door.

“You look so fresh,” she said.

I say, travelling is a like a putting a full stop to the hectic life so that we could start fresh and better, thinking big next morning. Like the sedimentation process, travelling offers me time to settle down my thoughts.

This is why perhaps, regardless of how much I get tired from the journey, I always return home fresh and with a pure heart. Then, after weeks of work and frantic life, I turn my checklist again, pack my bag pack and walk in search of me.

(Story and Photos by Prashneel Nepal, Edited by Dil Kumar Ale Magar)

KATHMANDU, August 26: Hindus throughout the country are celebrating Janai Purnima and Rakshya Bandhan on Sunday.

On the occasion, especially Hindu Brahmins and Chhetris who have undergone Bratabandha (hair saving ceremony) change the sacred thread janai (white cotton string worn across the chest) and also tie sacred thread around the wrist of the right hand.

As part of the festival, sisters tie color threads (rakhis) on the hand of their brothers and wish for their successful lives.

Photo: Mukunda Kalikote

KATHMANDU, July 28: The tagadharis or those who wear the ‘Janai’ (the sacred thread) around their bodies from the left shoulder change the sacred thread today after having a haircut and a bath on the occasion of ‘Janai Purnima’, also known as ‘Rishi Tarpani’.

This year, Nagpanchami and Janai Purnima are being observed on the same day. Nepal Calendar Determination Committee said that Janai Purnima is also being observed today as partial eclipse is taking place on August 7, the day of Shrawan Shukla Purnima, by making the basis to ‘Satkarma Ratnawali’, ‘Nirnaya Sindhu’, ‘Kritya Batika’ and other anthologies.

This festival observed by the Hindus, especially of the Shaiva sect is also popularly known as ‘Gunhu Punhi’ in the Newar community.

Chairman of Nepal Calendar Determination Committee Prof Dr Ram Chandra Gautam said that it is believed that pasting the picture of the serpentine on the door protects the house from lightning, fire, snake, scorpion and other poisonous insects.

Gautam said that Janai Purnima and Nag Panchami were observed on the same day in 1963 BS, 1982 BS and 2028 BS and 2047 BS as well.

According to the time-honoured tradition, the people receive the ‘Rakshya Bandhan’ thread, which is tied around the wrist as an amulet. The yellow thread is purified through the chanting of mantras by Brahmin priests as a symbol of protection from fear and disease. They also observe the occasion as ‘Kwanti Purnima’.

Kwanti, a soup prepared from nine different beans, is a special delicacy added to the Nepali menu today.

The ‘Kulabarna Tantra’, a Tantrik scripture, says that the soup is highly nutritious and keeps diseases away.

In the Terai region, there is a tradition in which sisters tie an attractive ‘Rakhi’ around the wrist of their brothers wishing them long life and prosperity.

Today, thousands of devotees worship lord Shiva at Pashupatinath in Kathmandu and at Kumbheswor in Lalitpur and take holy dips in ponds and lakes.

Religious fairs are held at Gosaikunda, an alpine area in Rasuwa District, and at Dansanghu, Triveni in Jumla district to observe the festival with offerings of worship to Lord Shiva. A big religious fair takes place at the Gosaikunda Lake and pilgrims come from faraway places to take a holy dip in this lake and other lakes nearby.

Religious fairs take place today at Pashupati and Manichud of Kathmandu; Gosaikunda of Rasuwa; Kumbheshwar of Lalitpur; Panchpokhari of Sindhupalchowk; Janakpurdham, Dhanush Sagar and Ganga Sagar of Dhanusha; Dansanghu of Jumla and Trivenidham of Nawalparasi.

The Buddhists observe this day in commemoration of the day the Lord Gautam Buddha defeated the evil power of lust. This episode is well-described in the Buddhist scripture ‘Lalitbistar’. A special fair takes place at Swayambhunath of Kathmandu today for this reason. RSS

NUWAKOT, July 25: Two trek routes are being brought into full operation with necessary preparations for the pilgrims and tourists heading to the Gosaikunda alpine lake on the occasion of Janai Purnima – a religious festival of the Hindus.

The two routes – one leading from Kathmandu’s Sundarijal and another from Nuwakot’s Samundratar – have been equipped with all necessities for the travelers, according to hotel entrepreneurs. Both the routes have been in operation in the past.

The trek route from Sundarijal passes through the pristine landscapes in Chisapani, Kutungsang, Bhanginagoth, Chaharepati, Ghopteveer to Suryakunda from where trekkers have to descend to Gosaikunda. The route is more prepared for the travelers than it had been in the past, according to Langtang Gosaikunda Helambu Hotel Entrepreneurs Concern Committee Vice Chairman, Pemba Lama.

The pilgrims have already started heading towards their destination through the trek route. It takes two days with rest from Sundarijal to reach Gosaikunda. This route has been in operation for the past three years although without proper management and necessary support system.

The most used route leading from Gangate area of Bidur municipality–5 passes through Kharanitar, Samundratar, Ramati, Gyangphedi, Talukseri to Suryakunda–Gosaikunda.

Hotel Entrepreneurs Concern Committee Secretary, Mingma Sherpa, said although it takes two days to reach Gosaikunda from Sundarijal, the route from Nuwakot’s Samundratar takes only one day. Samundratar located 35 km from Gangate is accessible by four wheelers.

Gosaikunda lake is located at an altitude of 4,380 metres above sea level in the Rasuwa district. The lake remains frozen for six months during the winter season. RSS